FRACK!
I woke up over the weekend feeling like crap - sore throat, plugged ears, light sensitivity, runny nose, slight fever plus I had a crappy night's sleep and I thought "this feels like I had another booster" then it's OH SHIT, I bet I have COVID.

Having carried some of the home tests around with me all around Scotland, I pulled on out and took it. Sure enough it was positive.

I told the shop elf to stay away and to get me tea and a box of tissues. I settled myself into the family room and said I would go stay there all day and I would sleep in the extra bedroom to keep distance from him because IF he got it we would both really suffer.  

First thing I did today was call the doctor for a Telemedicine appointment. I showed him the test results, said I was vaccinated and twice boosted and went over what symptoms I had including the 103 fever and my blood oxygen level was down to 94 which isn't bad but I am normally around 98. He said to keep monitoring it and if I was having issues breathing to call back or get to an emergency room.  Then we discussed taking an antiviral and he was going to call one in to the pharmacy next and I was to isolate for 5 days!!!

The pharmacy called an hour later and the shop elf picked it up. The medication is Molnupiravir and I take 4 pills, twice a day, for 5 days.

SO that's what I have been doing for the past 4 days and this morning I woke up almost feeling human; no cough, ears clear, no fever, blood oxygen up to 98 and I slept through the night.

Looking back I have to wonder where/when I picked it up but thankfully I did not test positive when I took the test prior to coming home as I would still be there! When walking around Edinburgh I wore my mask in buildings and when near crowd; I sat alone in restaurants and away from other diners. I wore my mask when I was in the airport(s) and plane(s) except when I ate food. This article discusses how people who are fully vaccinated and boosted seem to have a fast reaction when exposed.

Again I was up at 0600 and I had a in-room coffee, put my final items in the carryon bag and hauled everything down to the lobby by 0630 where the desk called for the taxi which arrived at 0700. The driver loaded my bags in the back and off we went to the airport. It turns out the airport is small - it only has one runway and one terminal; San Antonio Airport is larger. But because it is smaller it is crowded! I got in line to check in and I waited almost an hour to get to the desk; I was glad I arrived early as the line was only getting longer!

Finally done with checking in and giving them my big bag, I headed up to departures and to go through security. It was another long wait to get everything scanned, put back in the bags and my shoes back on.

Once in the departure hall, I had time to grab a coffee and ate a protein bar and FRACK I get a text saying my flight time is being delayed from 1045 to 1145. A little while later another text comes through saying that the flight was delayed until 1245; thankfully my connecting flight from Washington D.C. to San Antonio had a long layover so that flight would not be missed. 

Eventually we did board and I was on my way. After lunch I took a nap and then read my book until I landed in DC. From there it was through immigration and customs and then I settled into the United lounge until it was time to catch the connecting flight - which was also delayed! 

The shop elf was waiting for me at the luggage carousel - YIPPEE . We headed home and I was asleep at midnight. What a day!!

I woke up this morning at 0600 so I could grab a quick breakfast and then head off to the airport for my flight home. I checked my phone for any updates and there was a text message sent at 0300 saying my flight had been canceled - WTF!!! Oh I was fuming. 
Now, the UK and lots of Europe had been experiencing flight cancellation issues these past few days due to flights being scheduled and the airlines 1) overbooking and 2) Pilot and Attendant staffing issues but I had not seen any news mentioning issues with flights to North America so I thought it would be ok. Oh how wrong I was. When I went to the website and tried to reschedule my flights and could not. Then I tried calling and I was on hold for 45 minutes and was disconnected. I went back to the website and this time I was able to reschedule for tomorrow, Friday but I could not get seats so back on the phone I went and after another hour on hold, I was able to get seat assignments, I had been worried about getting a seat assignment because with the flight being canceled and the chance of overbooking I did not want to risk not getting a seat and having to stay again. Once that was done and I was calm I went down to the hotel desk and was able to extend my stay for one night and reschedule my taxi for the next morning.

Having taken care of the travel arrangements, I headed out wander up another close and did some scotch window shopping.

​After coffee and a croissant I headed to the National Portrait Gallery on the other side of the city. I decided to go there because during my stay with Mike and Elisa we watched the show Sky Arts Portrait Artist of the Year - 2022 and the winner was awarded a commission which was now hanging there.  The building was the best part of the visit as it is a massive red brick building built in 1889 in the neo-gothic style; if you like architecture it is well worth the visit.  I saw the commission which was in the main hall and was rather disappointed as it looked flat and not a vibrant as what was shown on the show; I think it was how it was lit. Then moved on through library and the galleries and I came to the conclusion that many of the Scottish Royals and the Clan Chiefs were very ugly (see picture of the child below).

I was getting tired, having been up so early, so back to my room I went for a rest and shower. 
I went down the street for dinner and treated myself to a ginger beer, haggis and cheese plate. 
Time to get to bed for my flight tomorrow - I HOPE

Before heading out for the day, I had to take the Covid test (24 hours before flying) via video to show I was negative; which I was. Then I headed out.

My plans for the day were as follows

• Museum on the Mound - History of the Bank of Scotland
• National Museum of Scotland - which now had the Natural History Museum which was closed for the renovation 15 years ago
• Dovecote Studio - a weaving and tapestry studio which had an exhibition on wallpaper
• Tartan Weaving Center

I walked up to the street to museum and was a bit to early for them to be opened so I took a detour and had a morning cuppa and a pastry; then a walk up the street to the Museum on the Mound. The museum was free and there was so much to see - it ran the gamut from forming the Bank of Scotland; minting the coins; the development of paper bills and printing them; forgers and forgeries. 

Next up the National Museum of Scotland. The shop elf and I were at the National History Museum 20+ years ago and loved the Mineral hall. When we had a chance to go back we found that the museum closed the day before for a major 5 year renovation, expansion and consolidation into the National Museum of Scotland.  My plan was to go to the mineral hall to get some pictures for the shop elf and to then go into the Kingdom of the  Scots hall which covers the history of Scotland.  Sadly to say the Mineral hall is no more, it was replaced with The Restless Earth which investigates the geological processes that constantly shape and reshape the planet. The few minerals they did have on display were poor; OUR collection has better specimens.   As I left the hall I wandered into another named Making and Creating and there were modern items - vessels, jewelry, sculpture, etc.  made of ceramic, glass and metal that I loved looking and one I recognized right away - a piece by Myra Mimlitsch-Gray who I took a class from when I was at Haystack.

Next up and not far away was the Dovecote Studio. When searching for things to see I Googled "weaving studio" and this places was in the results. It's is an actual tapestry and rug studio with an exhibition hall. The current exhibition was on William Morris Wallpaper. To be honest I really didn't want to see an exhibition on wallpaper at a weaving studio but I do like some William Morris textiles and of course the Arts & Crafts movement but was I surprised as the exhibition was more about the development and making of wallpaper which I found so much more interesting. I saw massive woodblocks; hand embroidered, hand painted, hand applied gold leaf wall papers; and leather and paper embossed papers. 

The last thing I did was walk up the road toward the castle where they were setting up the bleachers for the Festival and the Tattoo; my goal was the Tartan Weaving Center where you could (note the tense) walk above the weaving floor and see the looms at work. It's not a weaving center anymore there are no looms just  floors of woolen knitted or woven goods for sale and lots of cheap tourist souvenirs. I was horribly disappointed. I did not take a single picture.

As I headed back down the street I passed an antique jewelry and silver shop so I stopped in for a look and WOW was I glad I did. There was a case of gold and silver items that were amazing. I asked the shop keeper about them and asked for permission to take two pictures one of the gold broach and the other of a silver tray which he agreed to but not of the rest of the shop for security reasons. Note: I have found most will give person for pictures, I explain I am a part time metalsmith and chaser; they appreciate being asked before taking the pictures so they know that I am not there casing the place. This certainly was a bonus thing to see.

I then slowly wandered back down another close on my way to my hotel and decided to get dinner in a Nepalese restaurant. It was wonderful but it was time to get a good night's sleep since tomorrow I was heading home.

Because of the flight schedule mess up back in March, I was flying out of Edinburgh and thus I planned to travel down to the city a few days early so I could do some extra visiting - well today was that day.  

The plan is to get the train in Inverurie to Aberdeen then transfer to the train to Edinburgh. With my hip still being in pain and having a large and small(er) suit case I put what I would need for just the Edinburgh section in the smaller bag so I don't have to keep digging into the large bag. Then the smaller bag can convert to a backpack so I could keep both hands free to move the larger bag. I would have to do this especially in Inverurie where I have to go up and over the train tracks ON STAIRS to get on the other side for the train. 

My train was at 1245 but there were disruptions due to a contract dispute and with a change to the schedule, I was aiming for the 1200. Mike, Elisa, and I loaded up the car at 1030 and headed out at 1045.  We arrived at the train station in plenty of time and the train pulled in around 1145 so I could get on and settled in plenty of time.

I arrived in Edinburgh in the late afternoon at Waverly Station smack dab in the middle of the city. I was glad I had reserved a hotel by the train station so I did not have far to go with my suitcases.  After settling in to my room it was time to go for a wander and find a place to have dinner.

I wandered up the close (i.e. alleyway) stairs just behind the hotel which wasn't a great for my hip but I went slow. At the top I found a few pubs and restaurants but I was interested in the The Whiski Rooms which also had a shop! I probably spoke the guy in the shop for 30 minutes about my likes and dislikes and how I was looking for something new to try. After going over a few, I splurged on a limited edition bottling from Octave because the tasting notes were so different from anything I had ever seen. Afterwards I headed into the restaurant for a wonderful dinner of venison. As I was leaving I noticed that the bar had been faced in copper so I went over and took some pictures, of course.  

I then went back to my hotel, took a very hot shower and settled in for the night.

During the 8 month long planning for this trip, one of the items I had pack was temari making supplies. Elisa has Japanophilia, as do I, and since I make temari and she does not, we thought this would be a great opportunity to show and make her a temari or two.

I assembled a basic kit of rice hulls, yarn, pins, needle, paper strips, mari thread and colored threads for the design, and 2 patterns I knew I could finish during my visit. 

​A day or two after I arrived I started making a mari by putting the hulls in a piece of cloth and wrapping with yarn and then wrapping with a pale teal. I showed Elisa how I use the paper strip and pins to mark and divide the ball. The next day I lay down the marking thread and started stitching. I did not finish the first temari until after I returned from the walk.  After the wrapped bands on a Combination 8 in red, green gold/brown was finished I started the Simple 12 kiku pattern in Pink and Purples.

The best part was when Elisa decided to take some artsy-fartsy pictures of the supplies used and of me too.

Today I am am taking care of filing my Trip Insurance claim. I took out a policy with Travelex based upon TWO independent recommendations. I almost did not do it but I am glad I did. I should get almost two-thirds of the cost of the hiking holiday back and my travel expensed back to Aberdeenshire from Grantown-on-Spey.

As a bonus round, here are a few pictures of my bruises but NOT of the big on my hip!
First - the banged up toe nail on my right foot from all the walking down hill.
Second - a big bruise on my left that started at the joint; I have no clue as to how/when I did this.
Third - a bruise on my left shoulder which probably happened during the fall and I landed on something; thankfully I did not puncture myself on any tree branches. Yes, I know it's out of focus, think of it as a bad selfie.

As to an update on the hip - it still is a dull ache. I can walk without much pain but stairs are still hard and stilling with my legs crossed with the left on top which is my normal position will result in a dull pain in the hip and down the thigh.  

If you were wondering why there have been no post since the 19th, here's why..

I left the Moray Way on the 19th of May due to an injury on Day One. The injury would have not gotten progressively worse IF I hadn't been walking 12+ miles a day for the next few days after falling.  The night of the 18th, I could barely lift my left leg due to the pain in my hip. I was able to get to a GP on the 19th and without doing an MRI which would have been a large medical expense for me, he diagnosed the issue as bursitis as a result the slip and fall onto my hip that first day due to the rain.  Now that I had a diagnosis I was told to STOP walking, take lots of ibuprofen (3 Advil is the equivalent of a prescription dose), rest and see my doctor when I got home and even have some follow up PT depending on any tests results.  At this point I called the shop elf to tell him my plans which were to rest on Thursday and on Friday take a bus from Grantown to Inverness, then the train from Inverness to Inverurie, and then a taxi from Inverurie to Mike & Elisa's.  I also called Elisa and gave then the update and my expected time of arrival in the early afternoon. I did rest and prepared my pack and overnight bag for the next day, strolled around the town and walked across the street to a great pub for dinner; afterwards I had a lovely evening in the lounge talking to the owners. On Friday all went well despite being slow to walk and having some issues standing up and walking up and down stairs with a pack and a small suitcase. 

Looking back, I will say that despite the injury I had a wonderful time even though it poured on Monday and I had issues with the trail markings. IF I had continued I knew to be more attentive to them and direction changes. 

Now I will discuss what I did right and what I did wrong.

• Training - this I did right and some wrong. All the walking really helped me get my legs use to that much movement. What I did wrong was not hitting that 12+ mile training walk nor being prepared for the large hills I went up and down. IF I had walked on a treadmill with inclines, I could have gotten that training in and been better prepared.
• Clothing/Boots - I was properly clothed as it was cool and raining especially that first day so that was what I did right. My boots kept my feet dry; the Gore-Tex rain jacket and pants were well worth the money; my walking leggings also were of the correct weight so they kept my leg warm but not hot as did my REI super wool mid-layer long sleeve, 3/4 zip pull over.  What was kinda wrong? I did need the shorts I brought though maybe in July or August I might have used them.  I did not use the base layer clothing but if it had been cooler I certainly would have and that Puffy jacket I got from L.L. Bean was perfect in the mornings when it was very cool and until I warmed up. Then there is the black toenail; was it the boots being to small? My socks that day being too thick?? The steep downhills? Or all of it, who knows but it happened and so I am moving on and not worrying about it.
• Backpack - after seeing what others were using, my initial thoughts about it being too big (and thus I filled it with too much stuff) might be justified as everyone else I saw (5 other people) had about 35 L packs and mine was a 44 L. BUT it worked brilliantly and I have no regrets about trying 2 others to get a good fitting one and not settling for something that kinda worked.
• Food and Cook Stove - mostly wrong but some correct. I planned and purchased food to eat on the trail and even planned for snacks because I was afraid I would not be able to either purchase food in each town, easily or if I ordered lunch to go from the B&B it would not be adequate in terms of caloric need. Again after talking to other hikers and seeing what I had, I could have or should have done this. Additionally NONE OF THEM carried a stove for a hot lunch or beverage along the way; for a hot cuppa they had thermos' which I had thought of but decided at the last moment not to do. Then there was the rainy day - I really could have used a hot lunch that day but between the rain and wind and falling behind timewise, did not stop to cook and proceeded to snack all day. On the second day, I stopped for a nice lunch in Aberlour. Carrying the snacks was the correct thing to do, planning to cook lunch on the trail, not so much.
• Hiking/Walking Pole - THIS I DID RIGHT. I almost did not bring it as I was not enjoying walking with it during my training but this pole really did help especially when I needed to stabilize. Two would have been better and I understand why.
• First Aid Kit - I got this mostly right. I did not get blisters but was prepared and one of the women that I met on the trail had some baddies; I gave her some of my mole skin (she had not heard of it before) which really helped her. Overall I had the right stuff incase I did get a cut but I had too much of everything except for the ibuprofen and the topical lidocaine cream.
• Electronics - The phone with the GPS and the GPX trail maps was brilliant except that the screen would go wonky in the rain.  Note: I did have maps and a compass too. When I was deep in the wood and had no cellular service I did put it in airplane mode to save the battery. When my phone battery got down to 50 % I would plug it into the battery bank with internal solar charger I had and it would get topped up; the charger could last more than a day of walking but I did top it up every evening. The other electronics I had with me, in the pack was a small android tablet which I used for email and writing blog posts each night but I have to say that I hate the app for writing the posts and it is not as fully featured as using a full blown web browser and it would crash and close and not have saved what I was working on many times.

So what's my final assessment?
I am very very glad I did it. I set a hard challenge for myself and in my opinion did fantastic.
Will I or would I do it again? Yes, but not that section of the Speyside Way; I would like to come back someday and finish the Moray Way but not right now as I need to heal and do some hiking in the USA.

I have 1 more week here in northern Scotland then I head to Edinburgh before returning home. 
​
A picture of the Moo and Blue (beef and stilton blue cheese) pie and chips I had for dinner. Scotch not shown ;-)

Grantown-on-Spey to Dava 8 miles / 13 km
Nope, didn't do it. As a matter of fact I made the hard decision to not walk the rest.

Why?

1. Today I was again/still very sore in my thighs, some pain in my left calf and then there is the bruise on my hip; its turning a lovely shade of puce with hints of yellow along the edges.
2. So could I do this for 5 more days? I think not, not without really hurting at the end.

​I am ok with this decision. I am quite proud of what I have done as well. My fellow walkers, that I keep meeting up with, are also saying that this is harder than they expected.

So tomorrow I am getting a bus to Inverness and then a train to Inverurie and then another bus to the wilds of Aberdeenshire.

​I did spend part off the day wandering the town, taking in the local museum; Grantown was an early planned town to better the living conditions of the tenant farmers which of course would result in better farm yield and more money in the pocket of Lord Grant. I did wander down the Speyside Way, which was wide and FLAT, to the river and had a wonderful relaxing time just listening and watching the water.

​Dinner was a steak and Stilton pie YUM.

Ballindalloch to Grantown-on-Spey 13 miles / 21 km
After a good dinner and convo with other walkers i was in bed and asleep by 10 pm.
The day was clear but blustery as i set off down the.path thinking that.if it stayed like this my day would be good.

​Oh how wrong I was.

Soon I was walking up hill through woods and the past cows and sheep. And up it went I to the forest; how come no matter which way you go the wind is always coming at you. My legs were a little sore and no hip pain but I could tell that i was going to loose a toenail, as it just felt odd but I knew I didn't have any blisters.

I eventually came out onto a forest road and as i started down hill I checked the map and I had missed a turn back down through the woods. I backtracked about a half mile and I keep looking for a sign post which I found laying in tall grass. Down the path I went which seemed more like a groove formed from rain. I had to divert around more downed trees that were across the path. Eventually I came to a farm and walked across fields, through gates, across streams and then in another field where I had missed ANOTHER turn, in the middle of a field??!!! Again I backtracked and a half hour later found the post in a pile of field posts and a wrecked gate; my GPS said to turn left and waaaay up the hill I saw a gate (no marker at this distance) and went toward it; at the top was a marker pointing right so I did.

Back into the woods I went, and kept on walking and eventually I was on/in another farm. I had been walking for 6 hour and should almost be to Grantown but I still had 5 miles to go. According to the maps I was close to the main road that led into town and this decided to walk the road. Using the maps I followed the trail to a farm road and then to the main road. Once there I put my safety vest on as there was no shoulder and when I saw a big truck coming, I stepped into the bushes so they could pass with out being run over. Eventually I called the B&B for a pickup as it would be another hour of walking and my legs were done, my feet hurt, my hip was aching.